Can You Repair A Mackie Board Where The Main Outputs Are Fried?

How repairable are mackie mixers ?

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Hello,
I have a typical bought-used Mackie 1604 vlz that has been accumulating some problems I tin no longer ignore. The biggest problem correct at present seems to be a shoddy connection on the main right channel unless I'm going through a subgroup and assigning that to the principal 50 R for some reason. Other problems are noisy control room level knob, etc. Anyway, I was but wondering if it may be worth trying to get this thing serviced, but I imagine its all very integrated surface mount component situation that may non be very repairable, and so maybe in that location isn't much that tin can be done. I could call Mackie and take them recommend a local tech, or send it over to Mackie, or observe a local tech without Mackie. And then once again I've been wanting a bigger mixer for a while, but I should probably wait for a while financially speaking. Has anyone with similar random mackie mixer problems had them fixed by a local tech person? I could probably go another one of these on ebay merely it could amount to the same situation, and it seems like a shame to have this broken mixer if the problems can be fixed. Whatever opinion or advice is appreciated.
thank you,
-Andrew

Lives for gear

The channels on many Mackie mixers accept ribbon cables connecting channels or grouping of channels together. They often times need reseating/replacement.

Open her upwardly and look under the channel strips on the back side of the circuit boards for these cables and run into if that is not the upshot.

Lives for gear

+i on checking the ribbon cablevision

mackies have a bit of a reputation for ribbon cable bug.

and information technology's something very easy to fix.

Mine likewise is scratchy.
The local pro techs quoted $125 for a complete clean of a 1604VLZ.

hope that helps

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haven ➡️

Mine too is scratchy.
The local pro techs quoted $125 for a complete clean of a 1604VLZ.

promise that helps

or yous could practise what i did and accidentally spill a full glass of h2o into your mackie...

and then just take it outside.. tilt it to one side to drain the h2o out. open up information technology up.. fix it some place inside and allow information technology dry. then accept some cotton wool swabs and soak upwards any drops of h2o that oasis't evaporated. then get a cotton wool wipe.. like the little ones people use to clean their glasses and wipe off all the dust from fader channels and around pots and then close it upwards put all the knobs on and go back to work. srsly. the mixer works fine nonetheless. i was relieved.

but the best way is that electro-static cleaning or any that doesn't use any sprays.. sprays tend to push dust and grime further into pots etc.

I was able to look upwardly a recommended local service tech on the Mackie website, and volition give that a shot if it'southward in the $125 cost range. At to the lowest degree that fashion if I want to sell the mixer it'd exist mostly working at that point without many bug I imagine.

hey, at least it was water and non beer.

thank you for the info !

Lives for gear

I once took apart a Mackie 32 ch 8 double-decker and cleaned the pots and connections with denatured booze, after about 24 hours the thing finally stale upward and then it worked long enough to sell it off.
Spraying booze into the pots / switches and exercising them got rid of any crepitation. Just make sure you don't need the board for a few days because it takes a little while for the alcohol to evaporate.

Guys, could anyone share a picture of Mackie 1402 (1202,1602) insides just from the back with a back plate removed??
Can't find anywhere.

At that place'south a 5-pin connector from power supply to the master lath , which can exist plugged either mode, and in that location is NO indication on the lath where the first pivot suppose to go.

Horrible stuff, because the incorrect alignment volition fry the board.
Mackie'southward service transmission schematics show the power supply output coding (12345), but non the position of "pin I" on the lath.

Please help!
I'll provide quality pictures of actual board and the schematics if needed.
Thank you big time.

Lives for gear

If ane of the pins is a footing pin, that should be straightforward to place. One time you know that (bold information technology'southward not pivot 3...), the orientation should be easy.

Continuity from the plug gound pin to wire and on the other side continuity from the ground pivot of any IC to a pin of the connector should provide the necessary clues.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgearguy ➡️

If i of the pins is a ground pivot, that should exist straightforward to identify. Once you know that (bold information technology's not pin 3...), the orientation should be easy.

Continuity from the plug ground pin to wire and on the other side continuity from the basis pin of any IC to a pivot of the connector should provide the necessary clues.

information technology is exactly the problem - there is no indication on the other (board) side
indications on the connector are all clear.

Board connector is image ane
PSU out is image 2

Fastened Thumbnails

 

Lives for gear

Looks like 4 is the ground connection, but don't quote me on that. 1 and 2 are phantom power. What I would do is power upwards the PS module unconnected to the mixer and measure voltage between pin 1 and pin 2. Same between pin three and pin two. with pin ii (or 4) equally reference, y'all should meet approximately symmetric voltages (i.e. -16, +xvi). If you see around 45, that'south phantom ability.

What I was saying is to use a multi-meter and check for continuity. You can't necessarily eyeball information technology.

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldgearguy ➡️

Looks like 4 is the ground connection, but don't quote me on that. 1 and two are phantom power. What I would do is ability up the PS module unconnected to the mixer and measure voltage betwixt pin 1 and pivot 2. Same between pin 3 and pin 2. with pin two (or four) every bit reference, yous should come across approximately symmetric voltages (i.e. -16, +16). If you lot see around 45, that's phantom power.

What I was maxim is to use a multi-meter and check for continuity. You can't necessarily eyeball it.

yes, but it is the ps module which is already conspicuously marked, not the lath itself.

here it is -
one. Scarlet markers on PSU connector upsided
two. PSU connector reversed
three. PSU connector unplugged to the main board.

anyone with a picture of the proper position?

Quote:

Originally Posted past recordit ➡️

here information technology is -
1. Red markers on PSU connector upsided
two. PSU connector reversed
three. PSU connector unplugged to the chief board.

anyone with a motion picture of the proper position?

1402vlz, proper position is wires & cherry stripes upwardly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLouie ➡️

1402vlz, proper position is wires & red stripes upwardly.
Attachment 366692

huge thanks,man!
i idea so too

p.s. turned up just fine.
gearslutz just made another kid happy - Mackie 1402 vlz is about to move in with my nephew.
his uncle is a inexpensive bustard.

Quote:

Originally Posted by staudio ➡️

I once took autonomously a Mackie 32 ch 8 jitney and cleaned the pots and connections with denatured alcohol, later on about 24 hours the matter finally dried up and then information technology worked long enough to sell it off.
Spraying booze into the pots / switches and exercising them got rid of whatsoever crackle. Only make sure you don't demand the board for a few days because information technology takes a picayune while for the alcohol to evaporate.

Opening a 32x8? I have 1 here that's got some crackle, but taking it autonomously looks similar a chore from hell.

Mackie 802vlz4 - leds dead?

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Hello

I've but joined the forum, although I've been checking it for a while, for tips and data. This site is really something.

Anyhow, I just bought a new Mackie 802vlz4 Mixer ii weeks ago and the main output leds just went dead for all the channels. They light (only the right column) when whatsoever of the pre-fader/solo buttons are pressed and also when tape-in is used. For all other channels they don't calorie-free, altough sound comes out without any problem. Any proffer?

I've emailed Mackie support, and tomorow I'll take information technology to the store where I bought information technology...
meanwhile I was wondering if anyone here had whatever bug like to this one, who could give me some advice...

Thank you
Regards
Andi

Hi all--

New member here, with another Mackie repair question.

My 1604VLZ Pro has a cleaved phantom power switch. I've removed all of the screws on the back section, just I can't figure out how to disassemble the rear panel far enough to admission the switch for repair or replacement. Are there any published disassembly/assembly instructions available for this mixer?

Thanks!

--Phil

Hey You,
I'm new hither so please bear with me. My problem is a Mackie 1602 mixer that shuts off after running for ii minutes. I take to shut off the switch for well-nigh a minute so I can turn it back on. I am bold information technology might be the power supply but I would more than welcome anyone's thoughts. Everything else seems to be working great (no baloney, etc). Also if that is the case where can I go some pix or info of what the inside looks similar before I start digging around and does anyone know where I can acquire another power supply if that is the upshot? Cheers, Wolf

Quote:

Originally Posted by nofi ➡️

mackies have a scrap of a reputation for ribbon cable problems.

Ribbon cables are a mutual problem, it's not just Mackie. Why?

one. They can become unseated every bit the gear is moved most.

two. Lots of connections to oxidize.

Standard preventive maintenance is open upwardly the unit, apply contact cleaner to the sockets and reseat the cables on a regular basis.

Ribbon cables that are soldered directly to the lath (instead of using a socket) are harder to service merely much more than reliable.

Quote:

Originally Posted past GLouie ➡️

1402vlz, proper position is wires & red stripes up.
Attachment 366692

Could anyone tell me what the AC voltages are on the connector.

All are Air conditioning

Cerise ( Coil 0 )
Measure between these 2 with a digital multi-meter ready to AC
Red ( Coil 0 )

Brownish ( Curl one )
Measure between these two with a digital multi-meter set to Air-conditioning
Blackness ( Center tap betwixt the browns )
Measure between these two with a digital multi-meter ready to Air-conditioning
Brownish ( Coil 2 )

Scroll 0 =
Gyre 1 to middle tap =
Coil 2 to eye tap =

My unit of measurement is expressionless, actually the transformer is dead and I wish to supply the required AC to test that information technology is only the transformer earlier I order a replacement.

FYI:
Had a very dusty 1604 come into my shop with noisy gain trim pots. The rest of the controls seemed OK for the nigh part, but the input proceeds trims were terrible--every single one had "dead" spots and massive amounts of crackle when adjusted. I managed to quiet information technology down pretty hands. The secret? Deoxit sprayed directly downwardly the shaft of each afflicted pot through the front end console. I don't think these are sealed pots. Don't worry about some overspray--this stuff is electrically safe, dries pretty nicely, and doesn't get out residual on the panel. All I did was remove the knob to get the straw of the spray tin can a bit closer to the shaft and opening in the panel. Didn't fifty-fifty have to touch a screwdriver for this. Is it a temporary fix? Probably, but fourth dimension will tell. For now, they're repose as a church mouse.

Lives for gear

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmilingDog ➡️

FYI:
Had a very dusty 1604 come into my shop with noisy gain trim pots. The rest of the controls seemed OK for the most part, just the input gain trims were terrible--every single one had "dead" spots and massive amounts of crackle when adapted. I managed to quiet it downward pretty easily. The secret? Deoxit sprayed directly down the shaft of each afflicted pot through the front console. I don't think these are sealed pots. Don't worry about some overspray--this stuff is electrically safe, dries pretty nicely, and doesn't leave residual on the panel. All I did was remove the knob to get the harbinger of the spray can a flake closer to the shaft and opening in the panel. Didn't even accept to touch a screwdriver for this. Is it a temporary ready? Probably, simply time will tell. For now, they're tranquility as a church building mouse.

DeOxit and its predecessor Cramolin are miracle substances equally far equally I'g concerned. I wouldn't be without information technology.

Lives for gear

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmilingDog ➡️

FYI:
Had a very dusty 1604 come into my store with noisy proceeds trim pots. The rest of the controls seemed OK for the almost office, simply the input gain trims were terrible--every unmarried one had "dead" spots and massive amounts of crackle when adjusted. I managed to quiet it downwards pretty hands. The secret? Deoxit sprayed directly downwardly the shaft of each affected pot through the front console. I don't think these are sealed pots. Don't worry about some overspray--this stuff is electrically safe, dries pretty nicely, and doesn't leave residue on the panel. All I did was remove the knob to get the straw of the spray tin can a scrap closer to the shaft and opening in the panel. Didn't even have to touch on a screwdriver for this. Is information technology a temporary fix? Probably, simply time will tell. For now, they're quiet as a church building mouse.

Except that DeOxit is for metal on metal contacts but. Spraying it into carbon/plastic pots will eventually end upward making information technology worse than before. I've had gear come in that had been treated with DeOxit and some of the pots had frozen in place.

If you must use that stuff, at least utilize their FaderLube products that are made for plastic/metal combinations.

From the Caig website:

We recommend not spraying direct on whatsoever surface that you have Whatsoever questions near. Instead spray a lint-complimentary swab or textile with the production and treat the surface in that mode.

As far every bit whether the products are prophylactic on plastic(southward), this is what y'all should know:

The D5S (DeoxIT®) & G5S (DeoxIT® GOLD) series has petroleum naphtha every bit its carrier solvent and on rare occasions, considering information technology contains solvent, there MAY be an adverse reaction with vintage or inferior plastics.

The DN5 & GN5 series has a carrier solvent that evaporates almost instantly, and then the probability of issues in negligible.

The 100% solutions (D100S-2 and G100S-2) contain NO solvent, so they would pose no problem. The just thing would be that you lot should remove any excess product after treating the surface.

Quote:

Originally Posted by enossified ➡️

Ribbon cables are a common problem, information technology'southward not simply Mackie. Why?

1. They tin become unseated as the gear is moved near.

2. Lots of connections to oxidize.

Standard preventive maintenance is open up the unit, use contact cleaner to the sockets and reseat the cables on a regular basis.

Ribbon cables that are soldered direct to the board (instead of using a socket) are harder to service only much more reliable.

I deoxidize and the put a couple dabs of hot glue on the ribbon connector after its reinstalled. Holds information technology in place well BUT can exist removed without impairment if yous demand to service again in the futture.

Assist!
The one/4" Chief outs on my Mackie 1402 VLZ PRO have started to act upward. This board is roughly 7 years one-time and hasnt shown whatsoever bug till today. Specifically, when i try to transport indicate out from the i/4 jack to any speaker, it is fuzzy/distorted/crackled. This normally wouldnt be an issue since i too accept my XLR principal outs but im going to exist running multiple outs and need all 4. Any quick advice on how to gear up this issue?

Quote:

Originally Posted by brettgilbert1 ➡️

when i try to ship point out from the 1/4 jack to any speaker, information technology is fuzzy/distorted/crackled. Any quick advice on how to prepare this issue?

First thing to try is make clean the jacks themselves.

Then if that doesn't work, you will accept to beginning tracing backwards through the circuit. Do you have the service manual?

Hither for the gear

A buddy asked, whether the mains transformer for a CR1604 (not VLZ) can be reconfigured for either 115V or 230V. I find different pics on the google image search, but none which is detailed enough.

Hello there,

I was looking for informations on how to repair my CR1604-VLZ and ended up there

On my unit, the transformer is dead: buzzing, smelling bad, heating, and no longer generating advisable voltages.
The AC characteristics of this transformer are not available in the service manual and then I had to guess what to use every bit a remplacement (original ones cannot exist institute anymore).
In a showtime identify, I decided to forget about the BNC light connector and the 48v phantom power, and just repair the +16v and -16v DC voltages that make all other functions work.

I ordered a 60VA transformer with dual 20V AC output and hooked it upward to the brownish/black/brown inputs of the ability supply PCB and... information technology worked
Hither is the final setup:

http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/...psl82tag8e.jpg

I fabricated a custom bracket from a piece of aluminum to fit the new transformer and used a molex plug from an old ATX PSU to supervene upon the original connector.

Maybe this will help you revive yours if y'all encountered a similar problem.

Tom

Lives for snowflakes

.

Yep:

More than 90% of the typical problems with these mixers are due to the deterioration of the ribbon cables (or their connectors/connections)!

Replace them ALL equally SOP (including the ones leading to the inserts, etc.).

If that fixes it, then go back in and put some of this stuff on ALL the connections:

Sanchem, Inc. - Electrical Contact Lubricant

(You'll be glad ya did!)

.

Can You Repair A Mackie Board Where The Main Outputs Are Fried?,

Source: https://gearspace.com/board/so-much-gear-so-little-time/190335-how-repairable-mackie-mixers.html

Posted by: gordoncoughterep1971.blogspot.com

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