How To Repair Clutch In A Scion Xb

Yikes, my clutch is slipping when I pace on the gas hard and when I'yard letting out on the clutch pedal.

Just a note This is not a step by step explanation of how to replace your clutch, merely my commentary on my experience doing it myself.

So terminal weekend I replace the clutch in my Scion XB. It was showing signs of slipping. When I would advance the RPMs would rise faster than expected in the vehicle speed would non accelerate equally best as I had expected. Existence on a budget I wanted to find parts that were cheap only also of quality.

So after searching around on Amazon and on eBay I decided to purchase an XTD clutch from an eBay seller. Hither is the link to my buy page. Click Here. Normally I would go with a name make such and LUK, or EXEDY, but coin is tight.

I tried researching this brand of clutch but found that it was either hit or miss. Some people merits to have problems with their clutch simply others seem to be perfectly happy with with the production they received. I decided to give it a effort and hopefully it would've worked out. I ordered the clutch and received it inside a couple of days.

I purchased the phase one version which includes the higher capacity clutch plate a clutch deejay and a throw out bearing and the clutch alignment tool. Mine did not come up with a pilot bearing or bushing. According to the instructions the kit would accept come with it if it was needed.

Removing the transmission from my Scion XB was adequately straightforward. No matter what I tried to exercise however there was no way to go around removing the sub frame in order to gain clearance to remove the manual. One time the transmission was out and I removed my original clutch plate I found that my clutch disk was getting glazed which was causing my slipping.

It took me about 2 days to consummate the job over the labor twenty-four hours weekend. I did information technology in my garage and with only 1 flooring jack. Luckily the trans is not to heavy and I could maneuver it myself. Lift and plough to align the down pins on the engine and trans that is. Just exist sure to take some added support so information technology does not fall on y'all. Also, I didn't have an engine holder, then I used some long 2x4s and some ratcheting straps effectually the engine to hold it up in place. Yeah, it was budget, just I'chiliad not buying that engine holder for 1 job. Keep in heed that you have to lower or remove the subframe to get the trans out, be sure to marking the struts to the spindles so they go back in the correct spots and you lot don't have to re-align your machine. Be sure to accept actress axle bolts if you take them off.

At present, Normaly I recommend replacing the transmission input shaft seal, and the engine rear main oil seal, but I did not want to pull off the flywheel and I didn't desire to remove the bell housing for the trans seal. And so I inspected and didn't observe whatsoever oil leaks, so I'grand leaving them as they are.

Dusty but no signs of oil leaks

My old throw out bearing was still good, all the same since I had a replacement 1 equally role of the kit I went ahead and replaced it. I am a footling worried that the XTD throw out begetting may not terminal very long. I came across a couple online reviews of the bearing and found former they fail quickly.

One-time Throw out begetting is still in expert shape.

My old disc was getting glazed and difficult spots causing my slipping clutch.

New clutch cover and one-time one side past side.

New and onetime clutch disk side by side. New one has more than springs in the center. Should exist smoother engagement.

I decided to reuse my flywheel since it didn't look like it had hot spots, dis coloring, or glazing on the surface. I used a sanding disc to rough upwards the surface and put a not directional finish on it. But like on brake rotors and drums.

Non directional swirl finish and then the clutch disc volition suspension in.

Checking my new disc against my existing flywheel. Remember to put the larger side facing the transaxle or the clutch will not work.

Diameter of the flywheel and disc match.

The clutch cover plate bolts it on hands. Exist sure to tighten the bolts evenly and in the right order.

Repair manual torque spec and bolt pattern

While my vehicle was torn down, I discovered that all my mounts were deteriorated. The rear mount and trans mountain were broken and the engine right mountain was week and I could flex it easily by manus.
Then I went to my local Oriely's auto parts and got ii of the mounts. I'll wait for the trans mountain at another fourth dimension. I besides discovered my sway bar link bushings are bad. More work of some other time.

Afterwards reassembly the car drives much amend than previously. I can feel positive engagement with the clutch, and the smoother engagement at the clutch pedal. Engagement indicate feels just as information technology did with the stock disk and I don't experience much difference in the amount of petal pressure I need to utilise to disengage. As of 09-09-16 I accept put nigh 200 miles on the clutch and haven't noticed any problems. Information technology feels very stock and functional. Its not a racing clutch then I don't expect to feel anything unlike.

Its coming together my expectations and so far.

As a sidenote I installed regular gear oil and previously I was using Lucas gear oil. I can feel my shifter engage smoother and without grinding.

Practise you have whatever questions or comments. Please ask.

Thank you so much for reading this. Hope it helps yous out.

Vince.

Tools:

one/two inch drive impact,

Sockets - 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, in deep, shallow, and swivel. One-half inch drive.

Ratchets - i/2, three/eight, 1/4 drive.

Parts: